I in Ireland

Dance there upon the shore;

What need have you to care

For wind or water's roar?

And tumble out your hair

That the salt drops have wet;

Being young you have not known

The fool's triumph, nor yet

Love lost as soon as won,

Nor the best labourer dead

And all the sheaves to bind.

What need have you to dread

The monstrous crying of wind?

-- W. B. Yeats, 1916.

One of the greatest poets whose literature we read as kids. And, we were always led to believe he was English, meaning British. But, he really is Irish. Born in Dublin.

I am not really a poetic soul, even though I may be moved to a semblance of it sometimes. But, I do appreciate playing with words and being able to capture the transitional into a more concrete art form like literature, music, humor. And, according to IDA Ireland's latest commercial, the land possesses all that; the gab, the glint and the wit. So, I decided to check it out for myself. I was also inspired by some Irish food bloggers on Instagram and those I met at FBC 2013. The idea of living off the farm is just honestly becoming ever more appealing. I am not growing old, just wise. Dare you say otherwise! Besides, I was very curious about this phenomenon of Dublin.

I started in Dublin and spent a total of 5 days in the land of spuds with a couple of days of retreat in Cork county where I got a good healthy dose of the rugged Irish landscape and blessed self-sustained country living including eating off the land and noshing on honest tomatoes!

It started with a surprise. Let me explain. You see, the typical weather is supposed to be cool when you are comfortable with a wrap on and make it a wet proof one, as it is likely to sprinkle a bit at some point in the day. For the days I was there, it was all barmy and clear skies. Not a spot of rain. Brilliant weather indeed for a roll around the city and country. My visit coincided with the only heat wave they have had in 20 years! I came back to a cooler NYC with a deep tan and believe you me, I didn't need any more brown in me.

Now, if you were any history buff, you would have immediately caught on that I visited two rivaling counties! Dublin and Cork have had a long standing rift on who the real heir to Ireland is. Thing is, as they tend to do in this land of ballads, they start nationalistic or countyistic, drink a lot of Guinness (Dublin) or Murphys (Cork) and then forget the whole point of the conflict and go about storytelling, singing and dancing. And, so, the question hangs, until the next football (Gaelic) clash. A good-natured lot these and who can deny them a bit of discord.. not like they are feeding the IRA, right? Right!

So, anyway, I landed in Dublin, armed with a list of places to eat and foods to taste. The black pudding was up there! Then there was lamb, fish, cheese and oh yes, the potatoes :). Staying at a hostel that was centrally located was convenient. Nearly, everything is in walking distance. So, it was only a matter of a couple of days and I was done walking High street several times, through Trinity College, into the fancy barrister ridden parts of the city, cut through the parks and settled for a glass of local wine accompanied by some spectacular local food cooked with passion for the dish and the land.

During my stay, I have to say, I encountered a lot of passion. The Irish are well very proud of their Irish and Catholic heritage. Rome may find them too North to bother with, these days, but they love the pope. No, not the German one. He was a bit unconventional and difficult to understand! (well, he was German after all) The others, especially the ones from 100 or so years ago. I reckon the Brazilian isn't making much inroads in their hearts either.

There is an interesting culinary movement going on in Dublin. The trend of local is catching on and quite a few places are making their name on that tag line. Fortunately, they are able to deliver very well on that promise. Unfortunately, it comes at a very steep price. I found it very curious that the average meal there cost more than a equivalent one in Manhattan (a far more expensive city on the living index scale) even discounting the currency effect. Now, that leads me to muse upon the fiscal state of the country but this is not place for it. Suffice it to say, you had better go with your pockets full.

After a couple of days of city beat, I was yearning for the country side and some natural beauty. Three hours South it was thus to Cork, a county that benefits from the proximity to the sea and held to the country by rugged hills. It's a stunning part of the country with the warmth of the sea currents lending to a milder weather throughout the year. As you sit by the water, surrounded by ancient forest and unmoving hills, it is very easy to feel at peace and one with the world. It is a feeling that one feels when in any largely untouched piece of nature and after the urban chaos that is every day, such a break is not just rejuvenating but also invigorating.

The land is storied by spirits and ancient myths and it is hard to not catch a whiff of that heady wind and drift away into a land of dreams and castles. I caught myself several times day dreaming of running through the land, free spirited and laughing with the glint of soft setting sun reflecting in my hair and creating a halo of warmth and good cheer. I want that! Ok, I then woke up and realised it was a dream but I was still amidst some splendid beauty. Thank God for that! I still remember that dream... vividly :)

So that was the fabled land. It was interesting, inviting and entertaining! Also, if you are in Cork, don't miss the Middleton Whisky tour. Ironically, Jameson, a Dublin born Irish whisky maker moved their distilling operations to Cork several years ago and the Jameson Distillery in Dublin, now is just a tourist shell! :)

Footnote: I like Murphys better than Guinness. No offense to anyone... :)

Restaurant list at end of post.

DUBLIN

CORK

Dublin Restaurants:

L Mulligan Grocer

- Gastro Pub. Good food and draft beers at London prices

Seven Social

- Cute little Irish focused joint. Well executed and tasty menu with ample sized portions. Lovely wines and a knowledgeable owner who is also the friendly sommelier. Pricey but given the portions you can share more and eat well. Closed on Sunday.

Wuff

- Loved this place. Great for brunch. Younger crowd. Simple but thoughtful dishes and great coffee and baked goods.

The Brazen Head

- The oldest pub in Ireland. It is a quaint food with really good Irish food (read: black pudding) at great prices.

The only place I missed while in Dublin was dining at

The Winding Stair

! Marked for next time.

Dublin Hostel -

Generator Hostel

Cork stay - Ireland Farm Stays

The Magic of Spain and my article on Seville in Spenser Magazine

There is one country that I visited last year that I have not made any mention of in this blog, yet.

Spain!

Last October, I spent two beautiful weeks traveling through the country, absorbing its heritage, history, culture and cuisine.

The journey began in

Barcelona

, when I stepped off the Ryan Air flight after an blink-of-the-eye visit to Rome, a multifaceted city that thoroughly pampers the pleasure seeking traveler. My eye-opening journey through Spain's history began here on a bike tour through the old and new parts of the city with a very amusing, knowledgeable and I suspect hungover tour guide! Ironically, he was an young American, an history major, who found Barcelona's many offerings irresistible enough to stay for a few years now and make a good living by regaling tourists on these tours. The tour took us through everything that was of note in the city from the St. Catherine's cathedral to Sagrada Familia to the erstwhile Olympic Park, now residential area. {Unfortunately, I was afraid I would be unable to manage a bike and the camera at the same time. So, I don't have any photos of the tour :(}.

Apart from history and its legacy of strikes and protests as an expression of the continuing clashes between the Catalan and Spain, the city exudes a vibe that is impossible to not become intimately involved with and be sucked joyfully into its thrills. Spectacular tapas places dot every little alleyway, and there are many of those, and serve freshly prepared simple to elegant dishes that are a delight washed down with local Spanish wines. A note on these wines; they pack a punch of flavor and are an amazing accompaniment to the bold palate of the Spanish cuisine. The city's location on the coast makes it a perfect spot to indulge in

ceviches

or seafood based dishes (a coffee smoked trout I tried at one place is memorable).

For the discerning tastes in art and music, there is no dearth of exhibitions and concerts. The Palau de la Música Catalana, designed by the architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, a contemporary of Gaudi, is a stunning work of art in itself. The most striking element of the construction is the concert hall itself with its glorious skylight of stained glass designed by Antoni Rigalt whose centerpiece is an inverted dome in shades of gold surrounded by blue that suggests the sun and the sky.! {Again, apologies for the lack of photos but please google the place! It is divine!}

From Barcelona, my travel took me

South along the coast to Valencia

, a peaceful laid back town by the sea where everybody really just seemed to be enjoying the lovely weather and beautiful hues of the sea. And, ofcourse, the place is well

renowned for its Paella

. Sitting by the sea at

La Pepica

and cleaning out a whole huge order of paella between two was perhaps one of the most satisfying afternoons I have spent in a long while! The fish was so fresh and so perfectly cooked and so full of flavor, it really would have been a crime to leave any behind!

The next stop was further South to the

old capital of Spain, Seville

. This city is without doubt one of my favorites in Spain. Steeped in history, it marries so many different cultures, religions and attitudes in beautiful harmony; it is indeed a delight to experience and one that was unexpected and entirely pleasant. The people are very friendly and strike up a conversation with you despite language barriers. The place is my muse for

my latest article for the

Summer Issue of Spenser Magazine

. To read my

full account of the city and its stunning offerings, please

click here

! If you are looking for an

off-the-beaten path Spanish weekend experience

, I would urge you to pack your bags and take a flight into Seville. The place enthralls the visitor with Flamenco, food, art and a variety of cultures.

And, then it was off to

Madrid and the Basque region

. Looking back, I need to revisit these places to get a real feeling for the places. My stay in Madrid was marred by rain and it was really not the best time to get the most of the city. And, Bilbao was great but the stay was too short to be in any way memorable. I will definitely come back to the Basque region and, especially, San Sebastian to explore the cuisine here which has a distinct influence of the French from across the Northern border, a cuisine that is closest to my heart! :)

Overall, I left Spain with a good dose of vibrant energy pulsing through me and a desire to come back for more!!

I am experimenting with a new way of presenting photographs in travel posts, due to their volume. I am posting photos from each of the places below this text chronologically by place. For Sevilla, please click on the Spenser article for full story and photos. Do let me know if you find this style easier to process than my usual.

BARCELONA

VALENCIA

SEVILLE

For full story and more photos from Seville, please click here.

BILBAO

Foodie Weekend in Umbria - Photo Post

Germany ... A quick walk through the West

** I have just been given an embarrassing lesson in left-right or in this case East-West. Kindly pardon the oversight **

I will be brutally frank here. As

sight seeing

goes, East Germany was, perhaps, my least favorite of my four-country self-discovery European journey. But, that is not to say, that it did not add to my

wide-eyed awed intake of the world at large

. I discovered, as chance made it happen, much about myself... from about 10 years ago to now,

a transition as seen through other eyes

...

That said, there were a few gems that stay in my mind; not to mention the richly adorned catholic history generously scattered through the region. From Bonn, the old capital of Germany to Aachen the ancient seat of coronation, there is a

distinct presence of the churches

. However, I am unsure of it's grasp which, today, seems tenuous at best in the country.

Aachen is historic for its splendidly appointed cathedral that hosts the remains of sainted Charlemagne and a stunning treasury second only to the Vatican itself. Incidentally, not far away from history are the bloomings of modernity and cross-border culturalism. I walked into a really cute cafe that was as rom-com as the cathedral was brooding and dark.

I spent a couple of leisurely afternoons warmed by the Fall sun walking through Dusseldorf, sipping on truly good coffee and admiring the pride the city residents had for their micro-brewed alt beers!

So, what made this visit great for me?

Al, my dear friend

who sweetly hosted me in Bonn and took to

this wonderful tea place

! And, a chance exchange on Facebook (yes, I grudgingly accepted there is some good in Zuckerberg...!), led to an reconnection after almost a decade that vividly pictured to me the before and after of myself! Truly insightful, I'll say!

Happy week

!

For more photos of Germany,

click here.

Tuscany... A writer's muse

Art, in any form, is an expression of the creator's emotions.

It is, however, surprising that much of creativity is borne out of the darker side. Paintings, poetry, prose, music, dance... seemingly resonate deeper with a good dose of loneliness, depression, sadness, broken-heartedness etc.

I look back at my own writing and realize that my most poignant words tumbled out when I was perhaps distressed than other times. Why is it that a rose bush thorn seemingly inspires more eloquence than the flower itself?

But, wait... I had a break through! Indeed, the lonely walk down the narrow road is evocative... But, so is the bursting heart... joy, wonderous beauty, unsurpassed glory etc. But, oddly, I think, not ecstasy. That particular emotion tends to overwhelm the connectors of the right and left brains and leaves one gasping for air and words of expression.

So, when I first stepped onto the Tuscan countryside and took my first deep breath of that gorgeous Italian air, perfumed with olive trees and genuine warmth, I was left with no words to speak the euphoria I felt. I was simply held in a trance of taking the spectacle in.

Once assured that this magical beauty was not a mere illusion, my brain activity and heart rate resumed to normal and I let myself be enveloped, nay, coddled by this beatitude.

I set out for a month long travel through Europe on a quest. And, Tuscany was where I found myself really giving in to it. I have to say that the week I spent in this region was the start of my journey of regaining my beliefs. Italy taught me to relax, be in the moment, take life slow and for what it is, appreciate and enjoy the finer things in life like spectacular food, friends and family, femininity and most importantly, one's self!

For that, I salute my muse, Tuscany! I cannot wait to go back and spend more time in discovery!

And, my deep gratitude to my beautiful and talented hostess,

Juls

for showing me the Tuscan way to life and love!!!

On a related note, there is a stunning new

book on Tuscany and Tuscan cuisine

just fresh on the market, authored by my lovely friend. After days of indulging on her delicious food (oh the fresh pastas and platters (no, seriously!!) of

castagnaccio

that I devoured), I cannot impress on you enough, how you really, really, must order this book ASAP and create your own world of happiness in a bowl! The book is available on

Amazon

for delivery in US, UK and Europe.