Salt…. For something we, these days, take so casually; a condiment, we call it, relegating it to an optional, this little white thing has a rich, colorful and not always peaceful history! Revolutions were cruxed upon it, regions were prideful over it, and people starved or rejoiced for it. These days, salt is often reduced to sodium content. Put that way, everything contains sodium and yet nothing except sea water contains salt. Do we then need salt?
You may have heard of the Tuscan bread. Did you know it is made without salt? Most bread eaters from other regions often find it bland and tasteless. The bread is so, because Tuscany did not have access to salt for most of its history, that condiment being rather expensive and unavailable to a land locked region. But, it is hardly eaten on its own, but instead providing a meek but necessary base to carry delicious and rather very salty toppings such as proscuitto or just slivers of lard.
Speaking of lard, did you know an animal’s internal fat in general carries saltiness? A lot more than oil or butter. So, often when you cook with it, not only do you get a ton of flavor but also need much less salt to make the dish pop. It is indeed umami. Btw, have you noticed, dishes with umami, are generally saltier?
There again…. Salt, the quiet and subtle joy!
My time in Italy, especially in the less touristed region of Emilia Romagna gave me a new appreciation of the basics of food - of salt, fat, acid and time. It is the food belt of Italy and from where most of the best known food exports come from - Proscuitto di Parma and Parmigianno Reggiano cheese.
Living in Reggio Emilia, which, actually is a the micro region from where both of these originally hail (but were affiliated to Parma because Reggio was attached to manor seat at Parma), I obviously indulged in both those every week! But, more than either, today’s Reggio has a different dish as their cultural beacon - Erbazzone - a humble and little known (outside the region) tart that is made with the best of the region!
Oh I fell head first in love with the Erbazzone. Addiction is what I would call it. I ate it everyday and never tired of it! And every place made it subtly different, meaning there was always anticipation. Deceptively simple and fully and richly clothed in flavors, this chard and lard as I call it draws from the flavor of the lard (same as those pigs that you get the proscuitto from) in its richness and the fresh greens itself.
The secret to the region’s food is the terrior. The flavor of the land infuses in to the meat of the hogs, the milk of the heffers and veins of the chard. Put them all together and you have everything that you can ask for as a beacon of the place!
It has taken a long while for me to recreate the nostalgic flavors of my Italian sojourn. Time was one thing but I think deep inside it was a fear of making a mess of my memory with less than perfect ingredients. Afterall, my memory is as much as about the experience in that little town with the wonderful people I met and the macchiato I drank, as about the dish itself.
Finally, when La Baleine approached me to make something that would highlight their wonderful Meditteranean salt, I realised it was time to take my rolling pin out and tackle this cherished dish.
Because this dish draws so much from the lard, it was perfect for using a salt (La Baleine Essentiel) that has a lower sodium content. In this case, the salt does indeed act as a condiment, a supporting actor to the lead of the lard’s umami. It brings what a salt must without taking over and allowing the subtle flavors of the lard to come through. Sea salt has its own minerality and that works well with this dish. And, I must confess, I like the idea of staying true with atleast the use of salt from the Meditteranean. :-)
All said and done, I don’t know why I waited so long. All I needed were good rendered animal fat (I get my meat from local farms) with fresh greens, and I realized I don’t have to just live in the past but can simply make it my present and future!
Erbazzone
This is perfect as a savory breakfast, a snack and especially perfect for a road trip! It holds up very well and the flavor deepen over the day after it is baked. It would last atleast two days in the pantry when stored properly.
ERBAZZONE
A Chard and Lard Tart
For the Dough:
1-2/3 cups flour
5 T lard, room temperature
1/2 tsp La Baleine Essentiel sea salt
sprinkles of La Baleine coarse sea salt for the top
For the Filling:
4 T lard
1 shallot, minced (optional but add flavor)
2 T flour, preferably rice but you can use regular AP too
1 bunch swiss chard
2 generous cups fresh kale or spinach
1 cup frozen chopped kale or spinach
1/2 cup grated parmiggiano reggiano cheese
La Baleine fine sea salt per taste
pinch of pepper
Make the dough - Mix the salt into the flour.
Rub the lard into the flour till you get a mealy texture.
Add water one tablespoon at a time to make a wettish dough. Working quickly bring the dough into a ball and gently knead to make a tacky elastic dough.
Wrap the dough in cling wrap and refrigerate for atleast an hour to overnight. You can also refrigerate it. Thaw in fridge overnight, or, for 2 hours on counter, before using.
Meanwhile, destem the chard and chop roughly.
In a pan, melt the lard. When hot, add the shallot, and all the greens. Season with salt and pepper.
Cook them all together till the greens are fully cooked. Let cool a bit and then process to a coarse mixture.
Set aside till cooled down completely. Just before assembling the tart, fold in the grated cheese.
You can make this mix ahead of time too, as and when you see your greens lose their fresh lustre.
When the dough is well cooled, divide into approximate halves keeping one for the base, slightly larger.
Wrap and refrigerate one piece while working on the other. On a well floured surface, roll the dough as thin as you can. You’ll reach about 1/8 inch.
Gently place at the bottom of a sheet pan or baking tray with a little overhang. Spread the chard mixture evenly.
Roll out the second piece of dough and place gently over the mixture. Crimp over the edges by folding the base overhang over the the top. Prick the top all over with a fork and sprinkle some coarse sea salt.
Brush with oil and bake in an oven preheated to 400F (200C) for 30 minutes till golden brown. {If you forgot to preheat or you need to step away, refrigerate the assembled tart till ready.}
From Pisa
CECINA SANDWICH
From Sicily
MEATBALLS AND PASTA
From Florence
TORTA DE PERA