Things started picking up in early May. With the sudden heatwave, I madly rushed through the clearing and planting. In hindsight, it was necessary as we went to through a cold and wet spell for most of the rest of May. But, hey, at that time with 80-90F weather and blinding sun, I felt like the peak planting was passing me by.
Fortunately, after a couple of days of weeding, the patch was good enough to plant and because it had been recently covered with plants, the weeding process also did a lot of the tilling needed to loosed and turn the soil for planting. At this stage, all I knew about the ground was
- It was workable
- At least 5 inches of the top soil was loosely packed, so I did not need to add more top soil
- It was fairly nutrient rich based on the prolific number of earthworms I encountered
- It had pretty good sun exposure
- There were bees and birds around that would help
What I did not know was the actual nutrient and pH level of the soil and therefore what could and would not grow well. I was not going to nerd out on actually calibrating these, so the only thing I could do was try by trial and error. That is more fun anyway! :) So, I made a rough plan of laying the patch, using some online resource (The old Farmers Almanac, Companion Planting Guide). It was not very difficult for my set of plants - Peas could not be with potatoes and so, I planted them on opposite sides of the patch and the rest could be interspersed. Also, they recommend night shade veggies not be planted next to each other. So, I separated the potatoes from the tomatoes and peppers with squash, spinach lettuce and thyme.
At this stage, I thought it was too late to start radish which is a cool weather crop but I just wanted to try. So, on the left most edge, which is the cooler side with a little shade from the lip of the retaining wall, I directly seeded radish in ground and watched them quickly sprout. It felt good (until events later, for next post!).
My own tomato and pepper seedlings were still scrawny. I left them out to harden a bit more before transplanting. This is better (as I found out), especially for tomatoes as their stems grow tall. So, when you transplant them, you can bury them deeper in ground, giving them the opportunity to grow steadier trunks and be more stable. The little hairs on the stem you see are all baby roots, so they will sprout out into full roots up to whatever height you plant them at.